Flex.org is pretty comprehensive- there are loads of pdf guides covering all aspects of flex development. Flex also has an IDE (Flexbuilder) that is not free (+- $500 for the basic one and +- $900 for one that supports charting)that can be downloaded from the site (for trial period). The IDE works either as an Eclipse plugin (latest Exclipse i.e. 3.2 works best I discovered) or as a standalone tool. Anyway, I would try out the IDE to get an a feel for the kind of productivity that is ultimately possible with Flex. In itself, it (help facility) contains substantial documentation. It also has full debugging capabilities- you can actually step through your client-side action script code!. Even without an IDE, Flex development seems simple. MXML (flex's UI markup) seem a more intuitive markup than XUL and it's variants. I think it's closest match is Microsoft's XAML. As yet I'm experimenting only, but what I've seen so far almost convinces me that this will be my next first-choice web UI platform. Part of the appeal of Flex, is the simplicity- Macromedia development tools are traditionally not 'hardcore' developer centric, similar to Microsoft philosophy with development tools; they make it very easy to develop apps. I've been developing in Rails for the last year and developed my own UI libraries with server-side ruby API for things like trees, grids, menus and forms with which I can fairly rapidly develop web2-ish apps, but I am pretty sure that I'm going to drop that stuff in favour of Flex. Just a last comment(why not ajax): Microsoft's new XAML coupled with WPF/E is very similar to Flex: i.e. a way to provide rich rendering in the browser (all browsers supported) via a plugin. So it seems that some of the biggest players in the industry are not relying/investing on Ajax to support their vision of next generation apps. Ajax seems like an interim sollution, it originated almost by accident- whereas technologies like Flex and XAML/WPF was designed from the ground up to support a fundamental new vision of what applications should look and feel like.
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