Yeah. Use DIVs mainly to build "sections" that CSS can use to layout the page. Like #header, #footer, #nav... or whatever you prefer to call them. Use SPANs as a little as possible.
Use proper structural elements wherever you can. H1,H2,H3,P, BLOCKQUOTE, UL and so on. It won't be pretty without CSS but it will be very easy to read.
Here's a favorite of mine from a few years back. The colors are so tasteful. I could never do something like that myself. I think Disney formed my color sense.
Disable style sheets and see what I mean.